American professional ultrarunner and high-altitude speed climber Tyler “Ty” Andrews (La Sportiva) today set a new officially ratified speed record on Mount Everest, ascending from Base Camp (5,320m) to the summit (8,848m) in 9 hours and 55 minutes, over an hour faster than the previous record of 10:56:46 set by Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa in 2003. Andrews also shattered the round trip record, returning to Base Camp in 16 hours and 32 minutes, nearly two hours faster than the previous mark of 18:30. Both Andrews and Gelu Sherpa used supplemental oxygen. Departing at 7:11pm on May 27 and summiting at 5:06am on May 28 via the Southeast Ridge, Andrews covered approximately 29 kilometers and 3,821 meters of elevation gain and descent, a journey that typically takes expedition climbers 5 to 7 days.
This is not Andrews’ first high-altitude record; he previously set marks on Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Manaslu (8th highest peak on Earth), and holds nearly 100 other records. Everest, however, proved his greatest challenge yet.
“This was the hardest thing I’ve ever done, mentally and physically. I’ve been preparing for this for almost six years, seven attempts over three seasons. I had no doubt that I was in the best physical shape of my life thanks to my preparation and guidance from my team at Human Power Health. But, you don’t just need to be super fit, you need cooperation from the mountain, the weather, the crowds. Everything has to align,” Andrews said.
The successful attempt came after a near-miss on May 24, when logistical and weather problems forced Andrews to turn around just 400 meters below the summit while on record pace. He returned four days later undeterred.
“Ty came back from that first attempt and immediately asked when he could go back up. I’ve watched him develop as a Himalayan climber over the past few years and seen first-hand how tough he is and how hard he trains. He’s the only person I’ve ever seen bring an exercise bike to Everest Base Camp,” said Dawa Steven Sherpa, Andrews’ friend and expedition organizer.
As for what’s next: “I’d still like to break the Everest record without supplemental oxygen, but I think I need a break from Everest for now. I’ve still got a lot of racing and other records I’d like to chase.”
Andrews is the founder of the Chaski Foundation, which supports youth athletes in Ecuador and Nepal who lack access to coaching, equipment, and competitive opportunities. His Everest campaign has raised over $40,000 for athletes; learn more and donate here.
Media inquiries: Jim Courville — James@osmanlishan.com | Follow Ty: @TylerCAndrews
